India - Day Four (Saturday) "It's all about Delhi today"

Today we spent the day exploring a bit of Delhi.  After an early morning breakfast at the hotel (have we mentioned how much we love staying at this hotel?) we ventured out into the heat of the city.  We decided to forego a cab and instead to use the newly opened subway system.  It was terrific; new, clean, organized.  But for the men with automatic weapons standing behind stacks of sandbags inside the station, it seemed like any other Western subway system.

We emerged from the subway into Old Delhi, which of course is hot, crowded, noisy, dirty and raucus.  Just as it should be, right?  We made our way to the Red Fort, which is what it's name suggests - an old red fort, but large enough to include massive grounds, multiple palaces (no longer boasting their former splendor, unfortunately), a couple of museums. and a mosque or two.  Getting into the fort was the most exciting part of the morning.  It was just opening and the crowds were large, packed like sardines, disorganized and jostling for positions in line.  Fortunately, more men with automatic weapons were pretty effective at shoving the crowds around and getting them to behave - sort of.  (As Mike always says, "Don't argue with bouncers, bartenders and men with automatic weapons.")  As we waited to be moved and jostled through the crowd we watched as women were escorted to a separate gate without a line.  Although Mike was a bit miffed by the special treatment he had to admit that jostling in that crowd would not have been very safe for women, let alone very lady-like.  Ultimately we made it through the frisking by the men with automatic weapons and made our way to the ticket line (where we purchased our tickets at the "foreigner's tickets" window and paid 25 times the price of admissionn for Indians - although it was still only about $5) and then waited in yet another line to be frisked by more men with automatic weapons.  Finally, we arrived inside and strolled about the various palaces, museums and mosques.  All  in all it was a nice way to spend the morning.

Separate lines for men and women.

Ken considers a new vision for a new house in the country.

"Ken?  Really?  You want this in Boonville?"

How the Red Fort got red.

On the way out of the Red Fort we met a very nice and affable rickshaw driver (the term driver is not really accurate, since the rickshaws are bicycles).  Mike decided a ride through the market in a rickshaw would be our next adventure.  Our rickshaw ride turned out to be the highlight of the day.  Our guide peddled us through the narrow alleyways of the market, through the denim market, the jewelry market, the bridal market, the spice market, the book market and the paper market.  Ken, who has visited the market a few times before, noted that he had never been so deep into it or seen so much.  Our guide took us to a 1000 year old Jain temple tucked away down a deadend alley.  In the spice market he took us on a quick walking tour of the market, including up through a building to views overlooking the market and surrounding area.  Throughout the ride he manuevered his way through the narrow alleyways, throngs of shoppers on foot, other rickshaws, men with carts stacked high with myriad goods, and scooters.  Traffic jams were common but no one seemed to mind, confident that they would clear eventually.  Lest you think Mike and Ken must have been a heavy fare for this small Indian youth, note that other rickshaws were at times carting around four and five people.  While we were likely a heavy load, we were probably not the heaviest he had carried before.  Ultimately we made our way back to the Red Fort where our guide negotiated a tuk-tuk ride back to our hotel for us.  Our guide certainly earned a lot of Karma points for taking good care of us for the afternoon.

Private School Bus

 

" 'scuse me, pardon me . . . elephant passing on the left." 

I (Mike) should note here that while the ride was a great adventure we also saw close-up the poverty of India in the market.  While I won't dwell on that here and now, I think it's important to acknowledge it rather than disregard it.

After our ride through the market we returned to the hotel and lounged by the pool for a bit, which is spectacular.  Ken can't resist a good pool, and Mike (who is from the cool, gray and rainy environs of the Olympic Peninusula in northwest Washinton where 85 degrees is considered sweltering) finally had a chance to cool off after sweating nonstop for five hours.  We then dashed out to pick up Mike's newly tailored shirts and slacks, and visited a few of the local bars for cocktails.

All in all, a great day in India . . . .